I’ve recently completed an 18th century short gown for myself prompted by necessity on the advent of my attending a Burnley and Trowbridge workshop.
Once I knew of my need, I researched possibilities.
RESEARCH
While I was looking at this sewing project in process, I was in a bit of a quandary, trying to decide whether I should purchase a pattern or not.
Although I liked the idea of saving money on a pattern, since historical patterns are expensive, the shape left my mind in a muddle.
At that moment a guest started talking to me, discovered the reason for my perplexity, and proceeded to strongly encourage me sew a short gown without a pattern, while promising its simplicity.
She picked up the short gown on the counter and explained what it looked like when it was cut out and how it was sewn together.
Furiously I scribbled notes and took photographs (I thought I took photographs, I can’t find them now).
Eventually the time came to make a final decision.
I reviewed my notes from the milliner shop and despaired.
Although I had the basic information, I wasn’t sure that I could duplicate the proper shape.
Then I got the idea to research Costume Close-Up, a CW publication by Linda Baumgarten.
There was an extant short gown with the layout of a pattern that seemed clear enough for me to model one of my own.
MUSLIN CUT BY EYE
Instead of drafting the pattern from the book, because it was based on an extant short gown for a young girl, I cut the fabric of my short gown by eye because the design looked so simple.
Making a muslin, I laid out the fabric.
While looking at the basic shape of the pattern in Costume Close-Up, I approximated the shape by measuring myself and pinned the approximate cutting line.
(I used descriptions of the wear of a short gown in What Clothes Reveal, another CW book by Linda Baumgarten.)
After cutting it out I tried on the muslin and saw that it was a bit too tight in the bust.
Estimating how much wider I should cut it to allow for more ease, I added that to the width of the muslin.
Then I cut out the actual fashion fabric.
THE WEARING OF A SHORT GOWN
Short gowns seem to be humble little jackets, typically worn without stays.
They were often worn by working class women for ease of movement while doing household chores and such.
A gentry woman might wear one in the privacy of her home to remain cooler in the hot summer months or for comfort.
Short gowns were understandably comfortable during pregnancy, even though I’ve heard that even stays could by worn during pregnancy.
18TH CENTURY FABRIC
I looked at my 18th century fabric stash and realized I had a cute and cheerful blue on white print that I had purchased in the CW historic area about a year ago, at Mary Dickenson.
I had only purchased 3 yards of the 45″ fabric, which didn’t seem to be enough to make anything substantial.
Thus the destiny of this fabric became a short gown.
I only used 2 yards of the fabric. (What to do with the leftover 1 yard?)
SEWING PROCESS
Differing from the short jacket in Costume Close-Up, this one does not have ties.
I made this with only one piece of fabric cut to the proper shape.
All I had to sew were the side seams that joined as one with the underpart of the sleeve.
Then I rolled under the edges all around and up the center front.
The Costume Close-Up version also has a cuff which I did not add.
FUTURE ADDITIONS
For now, I wanted to keep this simple and basic, and let the cheerful color of the floral print and the lovely swoop and grace of the skirts be the charm in the short gown.
Eventually I’d like to add cuffs to the sleeves, as shown in Costume Close-Up, which will be the only added fabric pieces.
Also I’d like to add a drawstring to the neckline, which according to Costume Close-Up, is dated for the extant short gown from 1770-1780.
There is another drawstring in the extant short gown, in the back at the waistline which I will not add.
That was most likely an updated feature in the Regency Era, most likely to make the “old-fashioned” short gown more fashionable to the early 19th century.
However, I might make another short gown with that addition if I ever get to take early 19th century sewing classes with the mantua maker!
Historically short gowns were secured at the top with one pin and secured in the middle by wearing an apron.
Eventually an updated look will come together. Stay tuned!
