Last year I joined the 1912 Titanic Sewing Project where I received some digital patterns for free on the condition that I share my insights on how to sew them.
These patterns were gloriously brought to life again from their original 1912 La Mode Illustree publications that were originally written in French.
Translated into English by the sewing project team, my task is to puzzle out the limited directions within the pattern.
Sadly, the 1912 Project fell through partly through 2012, but I’d like to keep to the spirit of receiving these patterns, by sharing what I’ve learned.
PINTUCK LESSON ON TOILE #1
When I attempted this pattern last year, I grievously erred by sewing the pintucks into pattern pieces that were already cut out.
In previous pintucks with modern patterns, the pattern is designed in such a way to create the pintucks after the cutting.
However, I now realize that is a contemporary machine sewing method, not used historically.
Instead, the pintucks must be sewed into the fabric first, before laying out the pattern pieces and cutting into the fabric.
With that knowledge gleaned, toile #1 went into the trash.
1912 STITCHING RESEARCH
For my research, I referenced a new book I purchased a couple of years ago, Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Shaeffer.
Within the book I learned the history 9of haute couture, which fits within the timeframe of this French 1912 La Mode Illustree blouse.
Therefore, I used many of the methods described in the book for plackets, lapped seams, etc.
Since haute couture primarily used sewing machines for long seams and areas that need extra reinforcement, I did too.
However, everything else was hand sewed.
TOILE #2
Pulling a sheer lavender fabric from my stash, I created toile #2, with an interesting gathering technique for the back.
MY DAUGHTER CLAIMED THE TOILE
After finishing the toile, I picked my daughter up from college classes.
Seeing the toile, my daughter asked if she could wear it for our upcoming Becoming History presentation for the early 1900s.
Even though she no longer homeschools, she enjoys participating in our Becoming History presentations.
Since she’s busy with college, she usually references a known topic.
For 1912, she wants to be Christy Huddleston, from the book and tv series starring Kellie Martin, titled, Christy.
Written by Catherine Marshall, this book is about how the author’s parents met in the Smokey Mountains of 1912…albeit a bit fictionalized.
So I finished it with lacing assortments of her choice!
My daughter already has a cameo pin that she wants to wear with it.
FABRIC FOR MY 1912 BLOUSE
Over a year ago, I purchased some batiste fabric while I was visiting Needle and Thread in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, which appears to be associated with Wooded Hamlet Design.
Needle and Thread is my new fabric shop, since I found many lovely fabrics that I can’t even find near Washington, DC.
SEWING MY SHEER WHITE BATISTE 1912 BLOUSE
Cutting the pattern after sewing the tucks…
Then I sewed the sleeves completely!
Assembly of the sleeves to the front and back bodice…
Careful hand stitching of the shoulder seams.
Sleeve cuffs hand finished with lace and contemporary pearl buttons.
Revealing the placket that hides the buttons which secure the bodice…
Interesting how the sewing techniques of 1912 replicate much of what I’ve learned in my 18th century sewing classes.
That means these 1912 patterns are completely different from any contemporary pattern, and actually easier!
For more photos, check my Flickr set.
COMMENTS FROM MY OLD BLOG
MrsSM – November 6, 2013 -Wow, the blouse turned out beautifully. You did a fantastic job interpreting the directions, too! I was amazed that you lay your fabric out right on your carpet. Do you cut it out that way, too? I lay mine out on the carpet sometimes, but I usually have a cutting board underneath. I can see where laying the fabric on the carpet would help the fabric not shift quite so much.
Here’s another suggestion for you, if you haven’t thought of it already–you can cut out rectangles for your bodice fronts and backs, tuck those, and then cut out your pattern piece. I have done it that way before, and it works well. You will have a little more waste, so if you are trying to be careful of your fabric that might not work for you, but it helps marking and sewing to be uniform.
I was glad to read this–I wondered what happened with that Titanic project. It was such a great idea!
Krista
lahbluebonnet – November 6, 2013, at 9:43 PM – Yes, I cut out the fabric right on the carpet, which for a host of reasons I find easier to manage than a cutting board. Great idea about cutting out rectangles!
Thanks for the compliment!
Blessings,
Laurie
Anonymous – November 14, 2013 at 10:14 AM – Always enjoy reading your blog! Catherine Marshall was a dear friend of my mother’s, and her mom (Christy!), Mrs. Wood, was an awesome lady, indeed!!! Best, Liz
lahbluebonnet – November 14, 2013 at 10:51 AM – How neat! Thanks for the compliment!
Blessings,
Laurie
