Celebrating their 75th anniversary, the Costume Design Center at Colonial Williamsburg presented their seventh class of nine, teaching us how to sew historically accurate embellishments on stomachers.
Stomachers are interchangeable accessories pinned onto gown bodice fronts in the 18th century.
Although some historical stomachers are plain, others are quite fancy, especially when worn to the ball.
When we arrived in class, we received our kits full of directions, patterns, and silk ribbons galore.
We also each found a stomacher in our bags, premade by one of the seamstresses.
Ribbons as embellishments
After looking at historical portraits in various books to see how 18th century ladies wore the bows, we implemented some of the techniques on our stomacher.
Learning how to make three types of 18th century bows, we staggered them in size on our stomachers.
Our three ribbons were of different textures, to learn how each type wored.
Also, they are of different colors, because they are scrap ribbons from the Costume Design Center’s stash, placed randomly placed into our kits.
In part they don’t want us to be too concerned about matching, since the 18th century wasn’t as concerned about that as we are.
Also, our threads of different colors were helpful while learning new types of stitches, so we could see if our stitch placement was correct.
Buttons as embellishments
We also covered buttons.
Even though I learned how to do this in my first class, it was a great review.
I learned how to make sure those puckers are perfectly hidden away.
Pinking trim with 18th century tools
While the straight edge is 21st century, the curves are done with a specially curved awl with teeth that we pound with a mallet onto the edge of the fabric strip.
Pouf ribbon embellishment
Next we unpinned the bows and to prepare to make pouf ribbon trim which would be permanently sewn onto the stomacher.
Each of us were given a strand of green silk ribbon to pouf.
When the instructor suggested some trim, I chose this particular blue/green floral trim to take home to complete my project.
I’m going to try to snug it against the green pouf as she suggested. I never would have thought of it!
Pistachio flower embellishment
We also learned other embellishments, like these pistachio flowers. (see header photo)
Floss flower embellishment
We also practiced floss flowers, which make another appropriate embellishment for stomachers.
How amazing! One stomacher with seven different variations in this class!
LEARNING LOTS IN THESE CLASSES
Now that I have three 18th century sewing classes down, I have greatly expanded my ability to create a historical wardrobe.
Class 1 – I learned the key to historically accurate fabric and hand stitching. (Wow! I can do that!)
Class 2 – I learned how to wrap Dorset buttons and Death Head buttons. (Wow! I can even do those now!)
Class 3 – I learned how to create various types of bags to create accessories for the historical clothing I’m sewing.
Class 4 – I learned how to create historically accurate adornment for ladies’ gowns.
Class 5 – I learned how to trim hats to accessorize gowns for myself and my daughter!
Class 6 – Now I’ve gleaned new valuable tips for the problematic gown sewing.
Class 7 – Now I’ve learned embellishments for a popular lady’s accessory in the 18th century.
Two more classes to go while I improve my historical sewing.
Stay tuned!
