I am participating in an international project from the Vintage Pattern Lending Library commemorating the 100th anniversary of the Titanic where volunteers test patterns from the French fashion magazine, La Mode Illustree from 1912.
PATTERN
This pattern that I’m testing is the #0336 Ladies Princess Slip, La Mode Illustree from March 24, 1912.
There are only 4 pattern pieces that comprise the body of the garment.
I think an intermediate sewer would have the easiest time with this pattern.
The most difficult part was the pleating, since the directions do not explain how to do 1″ pleating.
Also, there are no directions on what size buttons are needed, or how many.
Although the instructions were rather easy to follow, illustrations would have been helpful.
The pattern fit me perfectly in the hips without any alterations.
FROM SLIP TO SUNDRESS
One design alteration I made was changing the garment from a slip to a sundress.
For a true historic slip, this pattern calls for silk, batiste or voile, with sheer insertion lace.
Instead for my sundress version, I chose 100% white on white cotton and thicker, solid textured cotton insertion lace, allowing me to design a sundress that I could wear around the house.
ALTERATIONS
I made alterations to the fit of the flounce to accommodate for my height.
After trying on the slip before pleating, I noticed that the bottom edge was already below my knee.
To have added the entire recommended length of pleated flounce would have brought the total length of the entire slip to the floor which surprised me since I’m taller than most ladies of the past.
So, I removed 5″ off the length of the flounce, bringing the completed length of the slip to tea length, more appropriate to the era.
A design alteration I made to the flounce was to not add insertion lace inside the pleated flounce, because I used a thicker cotton lace that would not accommodate pleating.
I also made alterations in the bust by taking in tucks in the bodice on the muslin.
Because life got busy, I put my project into a sewing basket.
Forgetting where I left off, I didn’t fit my slip until the end. Oops
Thus, I made a couple of extra tucks on the backs of the armscyes.
For this project, I used 23 pearl buttons, size 3/8,” from the La Mode button company, purchased at JoAnn Fabrics.
(I love pearls and thought it was fun to use La Mode buttons on a garment made from a La Mode Illustree pattern.)
FUTURE PLANS
Plans to make this again include slips of varying lengths with batiste fabric and sheer insertion lace.
I can even imagine other sundresses with summer cottons and cotton laces.
