New gown, new stays, underpinning dilemma: Sewing Journal

BURNLEY AND TROWBRIDGE WORKSHOPS

Nearly two years ago, Sept 2012, I took a Burnley and Trowbridge workshop with the tailor to create my 18th century stays!

2012-9-30 Colonial Williamsburg tailor fitting my stays at the Burnley and Trowbridge Workshop in Williamsburg — Burnley and Trowbridge Stays Workshop with the Tailor

Conquering the basics with them, I wore them to have my new silk gown draped with them about six weeks later, November 2012, at a Burnley and Trowbridge workshop with the mantua maker.

2012-11-3_42 draping_mantua making_Burnley Trowbridge workshop — *Burnley and Trowbridge Gown Workshop with the Mantua Maker*

STAYS AUDITION

Finally in February 2013, I finished hand stitching the basic components of my stays, minus the inner lining (still a work in progress).

The delay in completing the inner lining arose when I wore my new stays…but despite numerous tweaks, the top most points dig into my arm pit, rendering excruciating pain.

2013-2-7 fitting with my Burnley and Trowbridge workshop stays — *my 18th century stays from the Burnley and Trowbridge workshop*

Puzzling over that has delayed wearing them further, while I focus on numerous tweaks, wearing them for a photo shoot, awaiting any possible pain which seems to be delayed each time, then analyzing photos of myself compared to others.

Below is a view of one of my gowns with my stays on the same day I took the above photo.

2013-2-7 fitting with my Burnley and Trowbridge workshop stays with my gown — *18th century gown with B&T stays*

BUM ROLL AUDITION

Sometimes I take a break from that to work more on my gown, which I basically completed by Sept 2013 for a photo shoot with my stays and a bum roll, which I liked a lot…from most position!

Although the bum roll look originally seemed prodigious to me, I liked it well on the ladies…and I think I’m finally used to it!

2013-9-8_6 bum roll_cream petticoat_blue slate striped gown_draped Burnley Trowbridge — *18th century B&T gown with B&T stays and bum roll*

TRIMMING A SILK COVERED HAT

Also in September 2013, I took a break from agonizing over fitting myself, to trim a silk covered hat to coordinate with my gown!

Here it is displayed on my dress form with the bum roll as the underpinning.

2013-9-23_4 organza pearl silk covered hat_bum roll_cream petticoat_blue slate striped gown_draped Burnley Trowbridge — *New hat with 18th century B&T gown with B&T stays and bum roll*

TRIMMING THE GOWN

Then in January 2014 I finally trimmed my gown with pinked self-fabric ruching, which really perks it up.

To pin it in place, I used my white pearl-head pins to audition whether I’d like to incorporate pearls somehow into the trim.

Still pondering that one, but I do like the contrast against my Colonial Williamsburg Waverly curtains on the French Doors!

2014-1-4_2 pinked trim_blue slate striped gown_cream petticoat_draped Burnley Trowbridge — *Trimming 18th century B&T gown*

PHOTO SHOOT WITHOUT HIP PADDING

So earlier this month I took some time to audition my gown with my new stays with a period hair style, new hat, and fan!

I’m still trying to figure out how to get the hat to perch on my head just right! 😉

2014-6-1_1 hairstyle_fan_no bum roll_organza pearl hat_cream petticoat_blue slate striped gown_cream petticoat_draped Burnley Trowbridge — *18th century B&T gown with B&T stays*

Alas, didn’t use the bum roll this time…because the kids keep telling me it looks to big, but this looks too flat. 😉

2014-6-1_4 hairstyle_fan_no bum roll_organza pearl hat_cream petticoat_blue slate striped gown_cream petticoat_draped Burnley Trowbridge — *18th century B&T gown with B&T stays*

I’ve not yet hemmed my gown because I’m not sure where the length will settle once I settle on the underpadding: bum roll, rump pad, etc.

2014-6-1_5 hairstyle_fan_no bum roll_organza pearl hat_cream petticoat_blue slate striped gown_cream petticoat_draped Burnley Trowbridge — *18th century B&T gown with B&T stays*

RUMP PAD AUDITION

Having tried the rump pad before, I got major thumbs down from my kids, because it looked too sharp, so I’ve been trying it on numerous times with different amounts of stuffing.