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Historical Seamstress & Homeschooler

New gown, new stays, underpinning dilemma: Sewing Journal
18th Century Sewing Journal

New gown, new stays, underpinning dilemma: Sewing Journal

June 28, 2014

BURNLEY AND TROWBRIDGE WORKSHOPS

Nearly two years ago, Sept 2012, I took a Burnley and Trowbridge workshop with the tailor to create my 18th century stays!

2012-9-30 Colonial Williamsburg tailor fitting my stays at the Burnley and Trowbridge Workshop in Williamsburg
Burnley and Trowbridge Stays Workshop with the Tailor

Conquering the basics with them, I wore them to have my new silk gown draped with them about six weeks later, November 2012, at a Burnley and Trowbridge workshop with the mantua maker.

2012-11-3_42 draping_mantua making_Burnley Trowbridge workshop
Burnley and Trowbridge Gown Workshop with the Mantua Maker

STAYS AUDITION

Finally in February 2013, I finished hand stitching the basic components of my stays, minus the inner lining (still a work in progress).

The delay in completing the inner lining arose when I wore my new stays…but despite numerous tweaks, the top most points dig into my arm pit, rendering excruciating pain.

2013-2-7 fitting with my Burnley and Trowbridge workshop stays
my 18th century stays from the Burnley and Trowbridge workshop

Puzzling over that has delayed wearing them further, while I focus on numerous tweaks, wearing them for a photo shoot, awaiting any possible pain which seems to be delayed each time, then analyzing photos of myself compared to others.

Below is a view of one of my gowns with my stays on the same day I took the above photo.

2013-2-7 fitting with my Burnley and Trowbridge workshop stays with my gown
18th century gown with B&T stays

BUM ROLL AUDITION

Sometimes I take a break from that to work more on my gown, which I basically completed by Sept 2013 for a photo shoot with my stays and a bum roll, which I liked a lot…from most position!

Although the bum roll look originally seemed prodigious to me, I liked it well on the ladies…and I think I’m finally used to it!

2013-9-8_6 bum roll_cream petticoat_blue slate striped gown_draped Burnley Trowbridge
18th century B&T gown with B&T stays and bum roll

TRIMMING A SILK COVERED HAT

Also in September 2013, I took a break from agonizing over fitting myself, to trim a silk covered hat to coordinate with my gown!

Here it is displayed on my dress form with the bum roll as the underpinning.

2013-9-23_4 organza pearl silk covered hat_bum roll_cream petticoat_blue slate striped gown_draped Burnley Trowbridge
New hat with 18th century B&T gown with B&T stays and bum roll

TRIMMING THE GOWN

Then in January 2014 I finally trimmed my gown with pinked self-fabric ruching, which really perks it up.

To pin it in place, I used my white pearl-head pins to audition whether I’d like to incorporate pearls somehow into the trim.

Still pondering that one, but I do like the contrast against my Colonial Williamsburg Waverly curtains on the French Doors!

2014-1-4_2 pinked trim_blue slate striped gown_cream petticoat_draped Burnley Trowbridge
Trimming 18th century B&T gown

PHOTO SHOOT WITHOUT HIP PADDING

So earlier this month I took some time to audition my gown with my new stays with a period hair style, new hat, and fan!

I’m still trying to figure out how to get the hat to perch on my head just right! 😉

2014-6-1_1 hairstyle_fan_no bum roll_organza pearl hat_cream petticoat_blue slate striped gown_cream petticoat_draped Burnley Trowbridge
18th century B&T gown with B&T stays

Alas, didn’t use the bum roll this time…because the kids keep telling me it looks to big, but this looks too flat. 😉

2014-6-1_4 hairstyle_fan_no bum roll_organza pearl hat_cream petticoat_blue slate striped gown_cream petticoat_draped Burnley Trowbridge
18th century B&T gown with B&T stays

I’ve not yet hemmed my gown because I’m not sure where the length will settle once I settle on the underpadding: bum roll, rump pad, etc.

2014-6-1_5 hairstyle_fan_no bum roll_organza pearl hat_cream petticoat_blue slate striped gown_cream petticoat_draped Burnley Trowbridge
18th century B&T gown with B&T stays

RUMP PAD AUDITION

Having tried the rump pad before, I got major thumbs down from my kids, because it looked too sharp, so I’ve been trying it on numerous times with different amounts of stuffing.

2014-6-28_1 rump pad
Rump pad

So this time I wore the rump pad with an under petticoat on top of that, then my silk petticoat.

Again I’m wearing my new stays…though the points still dig into the front of my shoulder above the armpits.

In the following photos and the header, I like a few angles with the rump pad, but not all.

2014-6-28_3 rump pad_cream petticoat_blue slate striped gown_cream petticoat_draped Burnley Trowbridge
18th century B&T gown with B&T stays and rump pad
2014-6-28_4 rump pad_cream petticoat_blue slate striped gown_cream petticoat_draped Burnley Trowbridge
18th century B&T gown with B&T stays and rump pad
2014-6-28_6 rump pad_cream petticoat_blue slate striped gown_cream petticoat_draped Burnley Trowbridge
18th century B&T gown with B&T stays and rump pad
2014-6-28_8 rump pad_cream petticoat_blue slate striped gown_cream petticoat_draped Burnley Trowbridge
18th century B&T gown with B&T stays and rump pad
2014-6-28_10 rump pad_cream petticoat_blue slate striped gown_cream petticoat_draped Burnley Trowbridge
18th century B&T gown with B&T stays and rump pad
2014-6-28_11 rump pad_cream petticoat_blue slate striped gown_cream petticoat_draped Burnley Trowbridge
18th century B&T gown with B&T stays and rump pad

I’m thinking the bum roll is better than the rump pad.

As for the stays, I am still thinking through the best adjustment so it doesn’t hurt anymore.

Hmm….

For more photos, check my Flickr set.

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A former homeschool mom who sees the world through the lens of 18th century Virginia…and discovers Lafayette everywhere she turns.

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