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18th Century Virginia Musings

Meriweather Lewis 1803 Regimental and Chapeau de Bras
Sewing Historically

Meriweather Lewis 1803 Regimental and Chapeau de Bras

January 16, 2013

Last autumn one of my blog readers caught on to my son’s fascination with the Lewis and Clark Expedition through the Louisiana Purchase.

BOOK RECOMMENDATION

She, herself, is part of the modern Corps of Discovery, so she e-mailed to me the title of a book that would be perfect for any research we hoped to pursue, Lewis and Clark Tailor Made, Trail Worn: Army Life, Clothing, and Weapons of the Corps of Discovery.

great resource for 1803 regimental for our 1800-1825 Napoleonic Becoming History presentation
Terrific 1803 regimental resource

It is full of research based on primary resources, full of renderings, and detailed illustrations, as well as being well-documented.

Thank you, thank you, thank you for your recommendation!!!!!

Since my son wanted to portray Meriweather Lewis, we had no idea what he wore on the expedition, since the explorers are commonly portrayed with buckskin.

This book is the breakthrough research book on what the men wore on the Lewis and Clark expedition.

Because it was a military expedition, they wore regimentals, just like my son thought!

FASHIONING AN 1803 REGIMENTAL

Because this would be a one-time worn stage costume, with nowhere to interpret Lewis more formally, we did not have the budget for navy blue wool.

I spent nearly $100 for the wool for my son’s Lafayette regimental, a birthday present, he wears several times a year to Colonial Williamsburg.

For this stage costume I wanted to use navy blue felt (gasp) and a pattern for a coat with Regency tails…yet there was no navy blue felt to be found.

Thus, I decided to gently refashion the Lafayette regimental.

SEWING 1803 REVERES AND EPAULETTES

With extra red wool in the fabric stash, I only needed to sew new reveres (facings) to take the place of the buff, since I was only going to temporarily refashion the Lafayette regimental.

2013-1-6_2 Meriweather Lewis_1803 Regimental
1803 regimental reveres and epaulettes

But, if the day ever came that I actually made a proper 1803 regimental coat, at least the reveres and epaulettes are ready to go! 😉

Because, why not?

CHAPEAU DE BRAS RESEARCH

The chapeau de bras (hat) was cleverly made by my son after much analysis of one at the Colonial Williamsburg Costume Design Center.

My son also used Lewis and Clark Tailor Made, Trail Worn: Army Life, Clothing, and Weapons of the Corps of Discovery, which fabulously includes an entire chapter about the hats they wore, with details and illustrations.

My son set to work upon his hat at the beginning of Christmas break.

COMPARING NOTES WITH THE COLONIAL WILLIAMSBURG TAILOR

Midway through he set his project aside so we could take our Christmas trip to Colonial Williamsburg.

As with every other trip, we sought an opportunity to pop in to visit with the tailor.

While visiting the new tailor apprentice, he asked us about our latest sewing projects and my son mentioned he was making a chapeau de bras.

The tailor became quite interested and said he had made many himself, would my son like to trade information with him?

All my son needs is a little encouragement, so they fell into deep discussion of the chapeau de bras.

My son was very much on the right track though he did learn some new things.

CREATING THE 1803 CHAPEAU DE BRAS

Here is my son busy with his hat, with the Corps of Discovery book in front of him for reference, and the Lafayette hat too, for comparison.

2012-12-1_1 Regimental 1803 Chapeau de Bras
My son’s 1803 chapeau de bras

Although the hat lays flat, pushing in on the sides allows the “cap” portion to be seen.

2013-1-9_1 Regimental 1803 Chapeau de Bras
My son’s 1803 chapeau de bras
2013-3-2_1 Regimental 1803 Chapeau de Bras
My son’s 1803 chapeau de bras

My son fitted this to snug his head comfortably.

2013-1-9_3 Regimental 1803 Chapeau de Bras
My son’s 1803 chapeau de bras

He says he likes the eagle best, which he sculpted from clay then painted silver, since none ready-made could be found.

2013-3-2_6 Regimental 1803 Chapeau de Bras
My son’s 1803 chapeau de bras

SMALL CLOTHES READY TO GO

We knew we could reuse all the small clothes (shirt, waistcoat, breeches, even cravat) from the Lafayette regimental for the 1803 regimental.

Here is my son the night of the history presentation, in his small clothes with the addition of a red sash, representing a French soldier giving us a tour of Napoleonic battle fields (who lost his coat in battle…because of lack of time for me to sew a Napoleonic soldier regimental).

Napoleonic soldier giving battlefield tour for our 1800-1825 Napoleonic Becoming History presentation
18th century small clothes for early 19th century interpretation

MERIWEATHER LEWIS 1803 REGIMENTAL AND CHAPEAU DE BRAS

After a quick costume change with gentle refashioning of the Lafayette regimental…my son stepped into his next persona!

Meriweather Lewis of the Lewis and Clark Expedition for our 1800-1825 Napoleonic Becoming History presentation
Captain Meriweather Lewis of the Corps of Discovery – 1803 regimental and chapeau de bras

Presenting Captain Meriweather Lewis of the Corps of Discovery, 1803, co-leading the expeditionary force into the Louisiana Purchase!

Meriweather Lewis of the Lewis and Clark Expedition for our 1800-1825 Napoleonic Becoming History presentation
Captain Meriweather Lewis of the Corps of Discovery – 1803 regimental and chapeau de bras

Doesn’t it add to the drama?!

When I shared photos on social media, a lot of friends noted the fear factor. Mission accomplished!

Meriweather Lewis of the Lewis and Clark Expedition for our 1800-1825 Napoleonic Becoming History presentation
Captain Meriweather Lewis of the Corps of Discovery – 1803 regimental and chapeau de bras

His hat is period accurate, and fully functional, with a cap inside fitted to the head, while capable of collapsing under his arm.

Meriweather Lewis of the Lewis and Clark Expedition for our 1800-1825 Napoleonic Becoming History presentation
Captain Meriweather Lewis of the Corps of Discovery – 1803 regimental and chapeau de bras

The itty-bitty red diamonds on the buff lining, where the tails meet under the hands and near the knee were lightly basted, and easily removed afterwards.

Meanwhile the gold Lafayette epaulettes were easily exchanged in a very historically accurate way for the silver.

2013-1-12_9a Meriweather Lewis_Napoleonic Era_Becoming History
Captain Meriweather Lewis of the Corps of Discovery – 1803 regimental and chapeau de bras

There is a different type for each shoulder of the 1803 regimental…and I can’t believe we didn’t get more photos from this angle to show off the fancier epaulette.

Meriweather Lewis discusses the Lewis and Clark Expedition for our 1800-1825 Napoleonic Becoming History presentation
Captain Meriweather Lewis of the Corps of Discovery – 1803 regimental and chapeau de bras

His hair is brushed forward in a most period early 19th century manner.

I had cut his hair the day before, since haircuts were mandatory and new to the early 19th century military man, even as early as 1803.

1800-1825 Napoleonic Becoming History presentation
Captain Meriweather Lewis of the Corps of Discovery – 1803 regimental and chapeau de bras

{{{Afterwards the Lafayette regimental was restored to its glorious 1770’s American/French alliance splendor!}}}

For more photos, check my Flickr set.

POT POURRI

  • Brass Buttons for my Son’s Lafayette Coat: Sewing JournalLafayette Regimental for my son sewn with brass buttons
    Date
    January 7, 2012
  • My son’s new regimental waistcoat: Sewing JournalMy son wearing Continental Army regimental at the capitol in Colonial Williamsburg
    Date
    February 23, 2011
  • Following the Lewis and Clark Trail from Virginia to OregonColumbia River from plane
    Date
    July 25, 2025

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A former homeschool mom who sees the world through the lens of 18th century Virginia…and discovers Lafayette everywhere she turns.

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