The Plea
Mom, we need more historically accurate clothing. You need some, too, so we can have fun as a colonial family in the historic area.
The Mission
Elated that my long-time Colonial Williamsburg love has descended upon my kids, that sounded like fun!
Since my oldest was in her freshman year of high school, I had less than three years left to conquer this mystery of historic sewing, create an 18th century wardrobe for three of us, then have some fun time in the historic area in our proper attire.
The Problem
After college I sewed most of my dresses, blouses, shorts, and skirts, with happy results.
They were easy to whip up and comfortable to wear.
However in the last 15 years I’ve become disenchanted with sewing because contemporary patterns and fabrics no longer worked.
Not sure what happened, but I was ready to ditch the sewing machine, except I didn’t like as many clothes on the rack as I used to.
The Research
Not having a clue how to obtain the proper look, I began a deep-dive research process.
My sewed the first 18the century costumes for my kids with patterns from Simplicity, McCall, and Butterick, while looking at pictures to try to obtain a realistic feel.
They had a blast touring the historic area in 2008 on our trip from Texas.
I had no idea how to improve things beyond historic patterns, which I duly purchased.
However, they befuddled me since they have fewer illustrations for their very different sewing techniques and layout.
So not a problem with the pattern, but I needed a code-breaker to figure out 18th century sewing.
Learning from the masters
As the largest outdoor living history museum in the world, Colonial Williamsburg is also the lead in learning historical detail, working with other museums.
I’ve learned this, personally, from living so near Mount Vernon so I frequently visited there, too.
Can’t tell you how many times I heard: Colonial Williamsburg helped us with ___________.
I bought historical patterns and talked to the Colonial Williamsburg tailors, milliners, and Costume Design Center. (This Texas gal says: Thanks, y’all!)
Timeline
2004-8-2 thru 5 my kids make their first journey, my second, to Colonial Williamsburg. When we leave on our last day, my daughter asks for a colonial gown of her own. The historical sewing journey begins.
2008-8-4 thru 6 my kids make their first time-travel journey with costumes to Colonial Williamsburg.
2009-2-26: We move to Virginia…which is a huge surprise.
2009-4-18: Having secured a new home in Virginia, we begin our many 2009 time-travel journeys to Colonial Williamsburg, every month, sometimes twice or thrice a month.
2009-7-3: After buying my first historic patterns at the Mary Dickenson Shop, I ask the tailors and milliners about my realistically sewing historic attire.
2009-10-20: I visit the Costume Design Center’s Open House where my son wrangles the staff in to his plot that I sew historically accurate clothing
2010-1-16: I take a Costume Design Center Sewing Class on 18th century hand-stitching and fabrics. Wow! That cracked the code. About the time I became disenchanted with sewing contemporary attire, the market became flooded with polyester/cotton fabrics, which are terrible to needle with. No wonder!
2010-2-19: I take a Costume Design Center Sewing Class on 18th century buttons. Wow! Such simple steps to take historic sewing up another notch. The dorset button was a simple addition to my son’s new shirt!
2010-3-20: I take a Costume Design Center Sewing Class on 18th century market wallets, pockets, and gorgeous work bags. Accessories round out the clothing! Also the instructor emphasized to not worry about sewing perfection, because not all their items in the CW collection were perfectly stitched in the 18th century. So take a deep breathe, press on, and learn from our mistakes!
2010-4-17: I take a Costume Design Center Sewing Class on 18th century fly-fringe to adorn a lady’s gown!
Putting needle to fabric…the journey begins
Even though there are more classes to come, this is as far as I got by the time I completed my kids’ newest clothing, much more historically accurate, albeit with some mistakes. I’m learning, and they were loving the parts that worked!
The woes, though, might make you laugh, as I do now! 😉
Here’s my journal of puzzling through agony, confusion, and woes of my first attempt to sew historically accurate clothing for my kids.
2009-12-28-Shirt Woes
Unclear with the verbiage of my Kannik Korner shirt pattern, I made a huge mistake. I mistakenly cut away the wrong portion of fabric from my son’s shirt. (that’s why I use inexpensive fabric)
Journeying to Colonial Williamsburg a few days after Christmas allowed me the opportunity to examine shirts in the tailor shop.
Analyzing the construction of the shirts revealed I had definitely made a huge mistake.
Dreading starting all over again, the tailor told me to simply sew the parts back together, especially since the 18th century was notoriously frugal with their fabrics.
All the time I hear from the milliners and tailors: Labor was cheap but fabric was expensive.
2010-2-10 Shirt and Waistcoat Newsflash…
Interrupting the latest weather report announcing yet another blizzard pushing our snow total to 60″…I have finally finished hand stitching my son’s historically accurate colonial shirt!
Beginning the project in December, I had no idea polyester/cotton was problematic and the source of 90% of my problems.
Despite my mistakes it looks like a shirt!
Absolutely amazing, considering an 18th century gentleman’s shirt is comprised of rectangles and squares! Genius, whoever invented that.
The monogram is an historically accurate laundry marking done in cross stitch in blue or red, with a number underneath that distinguishes the different shirts.
For his laundry markings my son chose Continental Blue over Redcoat Red thread.
Underneath his initials, I stitched a 1, since this is my first handsewn shirt.
Although I sewed the ruffles as described in the Kannik’s Korner pattern, around the cuffs and up the arm slits, it doesn’t look like the tailor’s shirts.
Shouldn’t the ruffle only go around the wrists?
For the buff Lafayette waistcoat I hand stitched the buttonholes like I learned in my stitching class at CW!
I’m not yet done with the buttons or pocket flaps.
When my son tried on the shirt with the waistcoat I was amazed at how much more he looked like Lafayette, despite my sewing mistakes.
Sewing breeches are in my future. Oh, dear. They look complicated.
2010-3-16 Pink embroidered gown for my daughter’s birthday
For my daughter’s birthday, I promised her an historically accurate gown in her choice of natural fiber fabrics.
After sewing a shirt, I created stays from a $1 contemporary pattern, since the historic pattern overwhelmed me.
Using natural fiber fabrics from my fabric stash, I altered the contemporary pattern to simulate the look of the ones I’ve seen in the CW milliner shop.
When I machine sewed the binding onto the stays most of the binding escaped the needle. Oops, the binding is polyester/cotton…which doesn’t help. =/
I am also discovering that I like hand sewing much better than machine sewing!
At least the historical stay pattern now makes more sense. Next time…
Fitting my daughter’s gown sewn from a Mill Farm pattern while she wore her new shift and stays, I couldn’t get the bodice to close.
Puzzled, I scanned all my costume books I’ve purchased at the CW bookstore where I found several gowns during the American Revolution with the same design, called an Englishback gown or robe à l’anglaise.
Since I was having trouble with using the pattern directly, I thought I would attempt mantua making skills in fitting the bodice to my daughter and adding pleats to the back.
When the bodice still didn’t meet in front, I drafted a stomacher.
My daughter chose a white linen with small pink embroidered flowers from my fabric stash for the petticoat and stomachere, which my daughter adored.
Although the print is a bit small for a lady, my daughter is not fussy about that level of detail as long as she has the general look. So let her have fun with it!
2010-3-19 Birthday Debut of Gown
For my daughter’s birthday she debuted her new pink gown with embroidered pink flowers on white stomacher and petticoat.
The warm spring weather encouraged my son to remove his warm black cloak, so I finally have pictures of my son’s second Lafayette regimental, new white shirt, new buff waistcoat, new black stock (neck wear)…all of which are more historically accurate than the previous and discussed above.
Meanwhile my daughter’s pins meant to secure the bodice kept popping out, requiring us to frequently stop to repin before everything fell apart.
Now that I type this, I think that’s because I used plastic boning from the local fabric store not allowing the pins to firmly secure into the stays. =/
2010-3-20 Costume Design Center to the gown explosion rescue
The next morning, my daughter joined me for a historic sewing class at the Colonial Williamsburg Costume Design Center.
While waiting for class to begin, we perused the historic clothing assembled on the mannequins.
Seeing a gown quite similar to the one I had recently sewn for my daughter, I analyzed it closely.
One of the seamstresses came over to help, so I told her about our costuming woes for my daughter’s newest gown.
The seamstress undid the garment on the mannequin to show me some tips to help me with my daughter’s gown.
Hooks in the bodice. Wow! That was enlightening! Gotta try that!
2010-4-8 Is there hope beyond gown explosions?
Last night, I took the plunge by adding hooks to her bodice.
Then I cut down her stays, relaced them, and had her try everything on again for me to make some markings.
Her sleeve ruffles were uneven because I had sewn them while she was in bed the night before her birthday, so I ripped those out.
This time I’ll fit them to her, so I get the placement right.
I’m learning the importance of fittings, especially since seams are in different places than I’m used to with contemporary sewing.
I made tucks in the shoulder to tighten things up.
Since I had quickly sewn the hem the night before her birthday while she slept, I simply did what I always did with her contemporary dresses, I measured from the bottom.
Alas, I didn’t think about how the rectangular skirt meets in pleats to a V-shaped bodice, therefore creating a longer back skirt than the front, which I didn’t realize until too late.
Since she’d like the skirt to be drawn up polonaise (poofy) style, that is next on the to-do list.
Attaching the skirt to the bodice was a chore because the cotton fabric was a bit thick, so I couldn’t get all of the skirt to fit to the bodice.
After I cut off some of the skirt width, I repleated it. (gasp, I was desperate!) That more easily fit to the bodice!
I knew there was no way I’d be able to neatly sew this on the sewing machine, so I hand sewed this part!
Duh. Hand sewing is proving itself for the win every time.
2010-4-12 My daughter’s gown explosions remind us of Lucille Ball
My daughter can put on the shift herself, but I need to help her put on her stays, tie them, then tie on the petticoat and finally the gown.
The hooks are peaking out of the bodice but at least it is secure! No more pins exploding!
The other night we watched Yours, Mine and Ours with Lucille Ball and Henry Fonda.
I’ve always loved the Patrick Henry line in there that Henry Fonda frustratingly proclaims to his rebellious kids: If this be treason, make the most of it!
But Lucille Ball’s exploding dress, slip falling off, the fake eyelashes going askew…all took on a whole new meaning considering my daughter’s struggles with wearing this gown!
While making all the amendments to her dress, my daughter was most concerned about the sleeves, so she doesn’t expose her elbows!
The interpreters fuss about elbows, 18th century style, all. the. time. and she heard them!
Thus I’m now working on her sleeve flounces…and ruching along the bodice front.
My daughter is beside herself when I lay the lavender fabric of the ruching against the pink gown fabric.
Again, she’s not concerned about exact historical accuracy, as long as she has the semblence of it.
Unlike my son…
2010-4-15 18th Century Breeches-Unpuzzled
When I asked a seamstress at the CW Costume Design Center last year during the Open House how difficult they were to sew, she exclaimed that they were easy and I would have no trouble.
However, when I asked the milliner, she shuddered and refused to talk further about that topic. LOL
Then when I asked the tailor, he told me I needed his Burnley and Trowbridge class!
Awaiting his next class, time was of the essence. My son needed the breeches now!
My son needed new breeches six months ago! (He’s cheats with long pants stuffed into his boots.)
One afternoon my kids found me with the Mill Farm breeches pattern pieces carefully laid out, trying to match up where the next piece of fabric would go on the partially completed breeches.
Seeing the same deep, pondering, quizzical look on my face that I usually get when I work puzzles, and logic games, they mentioned it.
Yes, these breeches have been like a massive puzzle compelling me to conquer.
As a result, I’ve not only conquered but I’ve also gained a huge appreciation and understanding of breeches.
Seeing the completed longed for breeches, my son tried them on with his colonial shirt tucked in to the breeches, and the waistcoat on top of that.
Wow. He looks even more like Lafayette!
Meanwhile my son is ecstatic with them! His first real breeches!
They might not be great breeches, but they are definitely breeches!
2010-4-29 Visiting Burnley and Trowbridge for Lafayette costume supplies
En route to Colonial Williamsburg, we stopped by Burnley and Trowbridge, suppliers of sewing supplies for historical 18th century clothing.
They also arrange historical sewing classes through the Colonial Williamsburg tailors and milliners.
I stocked up on a few buckles my son has been wanting.
He is ecstatic that he now has a military stock buckle (for the black band he wears around his neck), breeches buckles and garter buckles.
B&T does not carry garters, so Angela recommended we make our own.
Putting my son in charge of creating the garters, I’m now in search for the proper black leather.
I also inquired about broadcloth wool in blue and buff, for a more historically accurate Lafayette regimental for my son.
The felt which I used for my son’s coat has pilled terribly. (no longer a shocker there, since it’s not a natural fiber)
Replying that she can’t keep blue and buff wool in stock, Angela recommended that I keep checking her website and phone calling to see when she gets it.
2010-4-29 My son’s historically accurate breeches debut
After our Burnley and Trowbridge visit, we toured all the latest offerings of the historic area.
Basset Hall made a lovely spring backdrop for my kids’ newest updates to their historical attire.
2010-5-14 Blue Waistcoat Finis
Needing to size down a man’s Mill Farm waistcoat pattern, I’m not sure if I got the length right.
Sewn with 100% linen, my son chose blue for the outside with buff for the lining.
It was so much easier to sew than the polyester/cotton blend I used for the previous Lafayette waistcoat.
Although machine sewn to speed things up, the buttonholes are handsewn.
Although my son wants death head buttons for his waistcoat, he concede to fabric buttons that I am better with.
He envisions navy blue buttons (to match the waistcoat) with gold dimples, but I’ve not yet purchased the special button forms so that the dimple (or even death head) buttons can be made. The same form is used for both.
Until then he has gold buttons that I am reusing from all of his old history presentation military uniforms that he outgrew. (gasp)
2010-5-15 My son debuts his new blue waistcoat
Our last trip to Colonial Williamsburg, for Drummers’ Call, was my son’s first time wearing this outfit.
After we met up after my latest sewing class with the Costume Design Center, he told me about all the comments he had been getting from some of the interpreters, who told him he needs a coat!
Even at my sewing class, this came up and one of the seamstresses suggested I make a summer coat for him.
I told my son that I could secure a proper pattern from Burnley and Trowbridge, which makes him very happy!
My son also said he met up with his favorite actor and they talked about the waistcoat.
When my son told him about his desire for the fancier buttons, the actor told him he liked the gold buttons! I like that kind of support! =)
Future Sewing Basket
A gown for my daughter, made of 100% cotton.
Historically accurate stays for my daughter.
A summer frockcoat for my son out of 100% linen.
Conquering the cravat for my son.
A wool gown for my daughter next winter to help her stay warm.
Historically accurate cloaks, since their old ones are 19th century and are pilling horribly…because they were made of craft felt before I took my first historic sewing class.
And eventually, quickly, soonly…something for me to join them!
