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Exploring the Tundra via Trail Ridge High-Way
Visiting Colorado

Exploring the Tundra via Trail Ridge High-Way

August 24, 2007

The morning after our Bear Lake hike promised to be sunny, albeit with some scattered clouds.

Despite the rain chances, we decided to tour the Trail Ridge Road, which allows us to climb over 4000’ as we journey to the sky on the longest and highest continuous paved highway in the world.

Providing a unique opportunity to drive to a North Pole experience in a few minutes, numerous pull-outs abound allowing visitors to leave their cars to walk and view sites unique from the world below.

Beginning our journey in Estes Park (elevation 7522’) we drive up in elevation to an amazing climb to over 12,000’.

Defined by elevation level, each of the following zones have unique flora and fauna for the specific temperature ranges of that area.

Montane Zone v Subalpine Zone

Specifically the lines of demarcation are set by elevation levels, and subalpine is definitely higher up and colder than the montane zone below.

Generally below 9000’ elevation, the Montane Zone, is warmer than higher elevations and characterized by meandering rivers, open meadows, and hilly slopes.

Ypsilon Mountain 13,520'_Trail Ridge Road
Ypsilon Mountain as viewed from Trail Ridge Road – Rocky Mountain National Park

Set between the elevation of 9000’ and 11,5000’ elevation, the Subalpine Zone includes broad meadows within deep, lush forests with flora and fauna unique to these biomes.

Terra Tomah Mountain 12,718'_Trail Ridge Road
Tora Tomah viewed from Trail Ridge Road – Rocky Mountain National Park

(In previous posts I’ve explained because I best understood Montane as simply forest, but in checking the research for this post, I’m learning there is also the Subalpine Zone. Oops! For the novice like me, the differences between Montane and Subalpine Zones require a guidebook if is of interest because of much overlap.)

Krummholz

The elevation between 11,000 and 12,000’ is called krummholz, which is German for crooked wood. It is in the Krummholz area that trees look crooked and gnarly as they weather brutal weather from the Alpine Zone.

Alpine Zone

Eventually we broke the tree line…which means we entered what we familiarly know as the tundra.

Alpine Zone is another name for tundra, which in Russian means no trees. The elevation marking this spot is above 11,000’. If you see a “bald” mountain, it’s likely because it’s over 11,000’ high, where no trees can grow.

elk_Forest Canyon Overlook 11,716'
Elk enjoying the Tundra Zone with the Subalpine Zone behind them – Rocky Mountain National Park

It’s cold and windy, so coats are a necessity. Even in the middle of summer, every gain of 1000’ of elevation results in a 3 degree drop in temperature.

Because of their height, alpine peaks create their own weather systems. Snowstorms can occur in the middle of summer. Dangerous thunderstorms could brew at any moment.

As we observed gorgeous scenery at Forest Canyon Overlook, dark clouds started forming and it got even colder.

Forest Canyon Overlook 11,716'_Trail Ridge Road
Forest Canyon Overlook from Trail Ridge Road – Rocky Mountain National Park

Preferring to enjoy the rest of the drive on a sunnier day, we drove down to the visitor center to explore the museum.

Then the next day was so perfectly gorgeous we used that as our 7-mile hiking day into the sky.

Finally it was our last day in the area and the weather was perfect! Not a storm cloud in sight all day. We returned directly to the tundra to pick up where we left off, which only took 10-15 minutes because we bypassed the previous overlooks we had already explored.

Pater Noster Lakes

Back to Terra Tomah, at the edge of Forest Canyon, and the Pater Noster Lakes.

Along the sides and foot of the mountain are several glacial lakes and waterfalls connected by streams and waterfalls.

Paternoster Lakes_Terra Tomah_Forest Canyon Overlook 11,716'
Pater Noster Lakes at base of Tera Tomah – Rocky Mountain National Park

This is common in the Alps where they are given the Latin name, Pater Noster Lakes, meaning Our Father, because they resemble the beads on a rosary.

Paternoster Lakes_Terra Tomah_Forest Canyon Overlook 11,716'
Pater Noster Lakes at base and side of Tera Tomah – Rocky Mountain National Park

Looking through binoculars for close up views, oohing and aahing over each discovered waterfall, stream, and glacial lake, we finally tore ourselves away to the 1-mile hike behind us.

Alpine Tundra

That might sound like easy down here at sea level, but when we were at 12,000’ where it’s colder, windier, and we have less oxygen, it’s more exhausting. Altitude sickness can easily set in if we don’t pace ourselves.

We walked on a path to these fascinating Mushroom Rocks, of gneiss (top) and silver plume granite (bottom) that erode at different rates.

silver plume granite underneath gneiss_Mushroom Rocks_Alpine Communities Trail 12,285'_Rock Cut Overlook
Mushroom Rocks in the Tundra Zone – Rocky Mountain National Park

We are to stay on the provided trail because walking on the tundra can harm the fragile plants of the alpine ecosystem.

Because the soil is thin and fragile, alpine plants barely grow more than a few inches, hugging the ground to stay warm.

The plants that are red and blue use their colors to capture ultraviolet radiation to help them keep warm, sort of like a natural anti-freeze.

Scotland's bluebell, Mountain Harebell alpina flora_Alpine Communities Trail 12,285'_Rock Cut Overlook
Mountain Harebells, alpine flowers that are the bluebell of Scotland – Rocky Mountain National Park

At the top of Trail Ridge Road is the Alpine Visitor Center, the highest visitor center in the park system, behind which can be seen this massive glacial cirque that was formed by the Fall River Glacier.

glacial cirque_Alpine Visitor Center 11,796'_Alpine Ridge Trail
Glacial Cirque behind Alpine Visitor Center – Rocky Mountain National Park

On the other side of the parking lot is a short hike to Huffer Hill, at 12,005’ elevation. Every few steps up begs you to stop and look around at the view while your breath catches up with you.

walk to top 12,005'_Alpine Ridge Trail
Hiking up Huffer Hill to reach the top of the world – Rocky Mountain National Park

All these rocks on the tundra were thrust up by the constant freeze/thaw cycle at this elevation.

The views are stunning from the top of the world.

at 12,005' looking towards Fall River Valley_Alpine Ridge Trail
View from 12,005′ elevation – Rocky Mountain National Park

Flower Garden in the Sky

Winter temperatures rarely exceed 20 degrees F, while summer temperatures rarely exceed 65 degrees F. Summer is the only time to see this alpine flower garden next to the visitor center on a special trail that protects the rest of the tundra.

Kings Crown (red), Alpine Avens (yellow) alpine flowers_Alpine Visitor Center 11,796'
Alpine Flowers at Rocky Mountain National Park

Continental Divide

Although it was past noon, the sky was still beautifully clear without a hint of rain! One of the rangers said it was one of the best days of the summer, little haze, and lots of blue sky!

Quickly we descended to the other side of Mummy Range and Fall River which took us to the Never Summer Mountains and then over the Continental Divide.

Never Summer Mountains eastern side Continental Divide_Fairview Curve Overlook 10,148' western side Continental Divide
Never Summer Mountains at Rocky Mountain National Park

At a mere 10,758’ elevation, we were back in the Montane/Subalpine Zone.

We drove all the way to the other end of Trail Ridge Road to Grand Lake, turned around, then headed back the way we came, since that was the quickest way back to Estes Park.

There are only 2 entrances into Rocky Mountain National Park: Estes Park and Grand Lake, with the Continental Divide in between.

Headed Back

Once at the top, we saw that the elk herd had made its way closer to the road. For all our numerous elk photos, getting a good pic of an elk with velvet antlers in a great setting on our last day in the area was noteworthy.

elk, returning to camp_Forest Canyon Overlook 11,716'
Elk with velvet antlers – Rocky Mountain National Park

For more great photos of this amazing day on Trail Ridge Road, check my Flickr set.

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