Since we are now studying the early 1800s in our homeschool, a Becoming History presentation is forthcoming.
Therefore, I’ve been researching gowns of the era, and their underpinnings.
Thus, I’m taking a short break from 18th century sewing to prepare for our presentation.
Further, I’m hoping the clothing I sew will be as historically accurate as possible, to wear to local events, which sometimes occur in Virginia.
FABRIC
For the fabric I used 100% lightweight linen, although now I realize 100% lightweight cotton would have been more accurate.
With the invention of the cotton gin in 1793, cotton fabrics became more readily available.
PATTERN
In my research I found a pattern from Period Impressions for a bodiced petticoat that I simply fell in love with.
While using this pattern, I added two extra pleats because the skirts were too long, and I did not want to cut off excess fabric (as the directions called for).
Why not more pleats?
HANDSEWN
While hand stitching, I narrowly turned down the edges.
All the seams are flat felled.
Love pleats…
Frills, as the directions call them. Love frills…
As much as I love pleats, as much as I love frills, there is one other aspect which, for me, puts early 19th century fashions over the top for me.
The back of the garments of this era are my absolute favorite because of the fullness of the gathers where the back bodice meets the skirt!
Love, love, love the fullness of gathers!
These are not simply the run of the mill gathers, because the fabric is not evenly spread out in back.
Instead, the bulk of the fabric is towards the center back which creates a lovely fullness which creates a bit of a cascade effect, which is easier to see when worn.
Here is a flat felled curve on the bias which can be problematic.
Always treat bias edges with heaping doses of tender loving care so as to not stretch the fabric.
I made my own bias binding from extra muslin for the drawstring waist.
Next from my sewing basket…Regency short stays.
