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Historical Seamstress & Homeschooler

Bespoke Blue Jeans with Floral Pocket Lining: Sewing Journal
A Sewing Journal - Vintage Flair Couture

Bespoke Blue Jeans with Floral Pocket Lining: Sewing Journal

January 24, 2016

Since my current jeans have holes that I keep patching, I recently purchased my usual favorites which were shockingly horrid!

Searching around, I couldn’t find anything better.

The funny thing is that I never wore blue jeans often in the past.

MY FIRST BLUE JEANS

When I pled for my first pair of blue jeans, mom my was horrified, so it was my dad who took me to a little boutique near our home where the lady helped me find a pair that fit.

I loved them because they weren’t typical manly jeans, but feminine.

Then I wore lots of dresses that I sewed in college and teaching, during which time I could no longer find blue jeans that fit.

That’s when a friend recommended Lee jeans to me, because they actually sold tall sizes at the store.

Finding cute pleated ones, I loved their feminine styles and ease of finding a style that fit and suited me.

When I became a stay-at-home mom, I determined to never wear blue jeans all the time, except that is exactly what happened.  

What happened to the dresses, which I could have easily sewn in simpler active-lifestyle cuteness?

Oh, yeah…contemporary fabrics and patterns became wonky.

NO MORE JEANS?

More recently I wondered, what happened to the blue jeans?

Made of spandex, they now stretch to odd proportions becoming five sizes too large throughout the day.

Finally, I was driven to sew my own blue jeans.

Although they were always on my daunting “I could never do that” list, I discovered they are much easier to sew than expected.

FABRIC

After prewashing, I ironed my 100% cotton denim fabric from Hancock Fabrics.

Then from my quilting stash I chose a blue/red floral for the pocket lining!

NOTIONS

For my Texas flair I chose these fun starry buttons!

Buttons for sewing a pair of blue jeans that fit with McCalls 5142
Starry buttons for my bespoke blue jeans

PATTERN

Choosing McCalls 5142 View D, which was designed by Palmer and Pletsch, I hoped it lived up to its motto of the “perfect jean.”

Sewing a pair of blue jeans that fit with McCalls 5142
Fabric and notions for my bespoke blue jeans

Although my off the rack jeans are a size 8, the McCalls measurement chart shockingly put me to a size 16.

Having read reviews that the pattern runs large with an enormous amount of ease, I was discouraged because that is not perfect.

After going through a few toiles, I found that size 10 would be my best size from this pattern.

Further adjustments included taking in the massively wide legs.

Since I’m tall, I lengthened the legs to accommodate.

PFAFF SEWING MACHINE ENDURANCE

Fearful that my sewing machine might not survive all the layers of denim, I took a deep breath, since there would be no handsewing with this project.

With each step of the sewing process, my Pfaff amazingly worked like a charm.

When it was time to sew the fly and zipper, I wavered a bit, since I had only ever sewn a button fly in a few historic 19th century pants for my son.

However, the Pfaff easily handled the zippered fly.

After machine finishing all the inside seams, it was time for the edge stitching and top stitching which creates the flat fell seams.

Again, my Pfaff easily powered through!

Now I greatly feared how well (or poorly) my sewing machine would sew a buttonhole, since I always have trouble with that.

On any other garment, my machine sews beautiful buttonholes on test samples, until I stick my garment underneath the needle, and the process gets stuck midway, leaving a huge bulk of thread that is annoying to rip out.

Carefully I started the buttonhole…

Sewing a pair of blue jeans that fit with McCalls 5142
Sewing the buttonhole for my blue jeans on my Pfaff sewing machine

which beautifully completed the stitch! What’s the difference?

Sewing a pair of blue jeans that fit with McCalls 5142
Sewing the buttonhole for my blue jeans on my Pfaff sewing machine

Only when I sewed the belt loops did I have a wee-ish bit of trouble, but a gentle nudge of the fabric from the back was all it needed.

One of the selling points for my Pfaff was that it advertised that it sews over thick layers well, as a result of its Integrated Dual-Feed technology (IDF).

I’m now totally loving my Pfaff for not only sewing quilts, but also blue jeans!

NON-SEWN BLUE JEAN BUTTON

Now it was time to hammer the blue jean button like a grommet!

Sewing a pair of blue jeans that fit with McCalls 5142
Pounding the button onto my bespoke blue jeans
Sewing a pair of blue jeans that fit with McCalls 5142
Pounding the button onto my bespoke blue jeans
Sewing a pair of blue jeans that fit with McCalls 5142
Pounding the button onto my bespoke blue jeans

MY BESPOKE BLUE JEANS

Finally, my blue jeans were completely sewn and recognizable!

Preferring a simple look, I opted to do without the watch pocket and no rivets.

Time will tell if I regret their lack.

Also here is my first attempt at edge stitching and top stitching which came out evenly!

Since I don’t care for brightly colored threads on jeans, I simply used a matching blue thread, like my favorite jeans of yore.

I sewed a pair of blue jeans with red blue floral pocket lining and they fit better than anything off the rack
Modeling my bespoke blue jeans

However, I love my pop of color coming from the floral pocket lining!

I sewed a pair of blue jeans with red blue floral pocket lining and they fit better than anything off the rack
Modeling my bespoke blue jeans
I sewed a pair of blue jeans with red blue floral pocket lining and they fit better than anything off the rack
Modeling my bespoke blue jeans

I opted to not decorate the pockets with fancy stitch since I prefer plain pockets.

I sewed a pair of blue jeans with red blue floral pocket lining and they fit better than anything off the rack
Modeling my bespoke blue jeans
I sewed a pair of blue jeans with red blue floral pocket lining and they fit better than anything off the rack
Modeling my bespoke blue jeans

ANNIVERSARY OF GOLD DISCOVERY

Coincidentally, my jeans were ready to debut, on this day of the anniversary that gold was first discovered in California, which led to the development of blue jeans!

More importatntly, they fit and are comfortable!

I sewed my first pair of blue jeans...and they fit far better than anything I can find in the stores or online
Modeling my bespoke blue jeans

I would definitely sew these again!

I sewed my first pair of blue jeans...and they fit far better than anything I can find in the stores or online
Modeling my bespoke blue jeans

I’ve already promised my daughter that I will sew some for her.

Fortunately, she wears the same size as me in width. I only need to reduce the length for her.

I’m sure she’s already thinking about which prints she can pull from the stash for her pocket lining!

These cost me less than $30!

Stay tuned for future jeans and possible style variations!

So, if I can sew my own pair of bespoke blue jeans, you can too, in the style that you prefer! 😉

For more photos, check my Flickr set.

COMMENTS FROM MY OLD BLOG

The Quintessential Clothes Pen – January 30, 2016 at 4:10 PM – Congratulations! Making your own jeans is quite an accomplishment! They look very nice and it’s so great to have them customized to the way you like them to be.
Best,
Quinn

Black Tulip – February 2, 2016 at 3:44 PM – I’m in awe; I’ve never so much as made a pair of trousers, let alone jeans! It does seem to be impossible to get shop-bought trousers or fitted skirts which actually fit these days – thank goodness for being able to make our own.

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A former homeschool mom who sees the world through the lens of 18th century Virginia…and discovers Lafayette everywhere she turns.

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