I’ll never forget my first trip to Monticello, which absolutely had to include a lovely walk in the vineyard, after having swooned over Thomas Jefferson’s gorgeous hillside garden in a Southern Living magazine publication.
However on that memorable day in 2004, the remnants Hurricane Clyde Charley unleashed volumes of water upon us, so we focused on indoor sites, which too, were amazing.
As we left after the mountaintop closed, the sun broke through the clouds with glorious sunshine.
Alas, our lovely Virginia trip was ending.
All we had left was our evening at the KOA Kampground near Walton’s Mountain, since we were driving back to Texas the next morning.
Stay tuned for the Thomas Jefferson connection to Walton’s Mountain!
Nevertheless, I had a tote bag full of books from all the historical sites, including Monticello, to savor and dream of another trip.
Thankfully, my first vineyard visit happened in 2008, on our next trip from Texas.
From my gleanings of my many souvenir books, I planned the perfect route.
TOURING VIRINIGIA’S WINE COUNTRY
After a lovely day at Montpelier, as they wrapped up fascinating restorations, we drove to a Comfort Inn Hotel near Monticello. (early up from bed the next day, quick bite to eat, and asap on Jefferson’s little mountain was the next day’s plan!)
But that drive between Montpelier and Monticello was gorgeous!
Twisting roads up and down hills with miles upon miles of lush vineyards! Can I just live here? {{{swoon}}}
Little did I know this route was part of the famed Monticello Wine Trail. (more on that below)
The morning the sun rose to azure blue skies as we enjoyed a full day upon Monticello.
The restored gardens by Peter Hatch were amazing!
Below hill of vegetable gardens were vineyards full of luscious looking grapes, which is absolutely what I’d expect of Mr. Thomas Jefferson to cultivate!
Except, Jefferson’s Garden Book records otherwise.
JEFFERSON’S EXPERIMENTATIONS WITH GRAPES
Although Thomas Jefferson is hailed as America’s “first distinguished viticulurist“, his vineyard cultivation journey was apparently marked more by struggles than successes.
Interestingly, Jefferson’s recordings of his vineyard plantings imply experimentation.
- 1770s – vineyard planted
- 1807 – German and French culivars planted of 25 varieties of table and wine grapes
- 1811 – native grapes planted
- 1816 – both native and European grapes planted
After planting European vines seven different seasons, Jefferson discovered they continually incurred diseases.
Apparently, Filippo Mazzei encouraged Jefferson to diversify his vineyard plantings with native varieties, such as the Vitus labrusca “fox grape” which grew in the Monticello woods, and Vitis rotundifolia, more popularly known as scuppernong, which grew wild in North Carolina.
While robust in growth, American varieties did not produce the hoped for European flavors.
In the 1780s, when Jefferson served as Minister to France, he toured the vineyards of Europe to learn the art of winemaking, while also further learning of the varieties of European wines.
While expanding his grape cultivations into American varieties, Jefferson never recorded successful wine making from his estate.
However, in an 1817 letter Jefferson records: North Carolina has the merit of taking the lead…of giving the first specimen of an exquisite wine…her Scuppernon wine, made on the South side of the Sound, would be distinguished on the best tables of Europe, for it’s fine aroma, and chrystalline transparence. unhappily that aroma, in most of the samples I have seen, has been entirely submerged in brandy. this coarse taste and practice is the peculiarity of Englishmen…I hope it will be discontinued…
1807 MONTICELLO VINEYARD
Since the fullest story of Jefferson’s research abides in 1807, when he planted 287 rooted vines and cuttings of 24 European grape varieties, that’s the year interpreted on the lovely hillside!
In the South Orchard of seventeen terraces are two vineyards: a 9,000 square foot vineyard in the northeast section…
…and a 16,000 square foot vineyard in the southwest section…
Since the amount of table grapes far outweigh table grapes, its suspected that Jefferson was experimenting more than conquering wine making.
Two hundred forty grape plants now climb split-rail posts downhill from Monticello’s vegetable garden. No grapes will be harvested until 1987 and even then Monticello won’t be making much of its own wine. “Like Jefferson’s, it’s an experimental vineyard,” says Hatch. “You could mix the grapes all together and make something unique. We will probably make a wine, but it’s just going to be for fun.” -“Thomas Jefferson’s Vineyard Headaches“, Susan Tyler Hitchcock, Washington Post, July 14, 1985.
A few years later, Monticello produced three hundred bottles of blended white wine from their 1988 harvest.
The southwest vineyard was replanted in 1993 entirely with the Sangiovese grape, a variety documented by Jefferson in 1807 and the principal ingredient of Chianti. Several vintages were made with harvests from this vineyard. –Monticello
The plantings at Monticello continue to serve as experimental gardens of unusual varieties of vinifera.
Why were they successful, when Jefferson was not?
HYBRID SUCCESS FOR JEFFERSON
After Jefferson’s extensive European wine and table grapes experiment failed in 1807, he turned his attention to cultivating native American grapes in 1811, then with both European and American grapes in 1816.
According to Hatch, Jefferson’s positive discoveries of those years foreshadowed ultimate success that Virginia only saw long after his passing.
For example, Jefferson happily recorded that the grape he called cape of good hope or alexander…tasted like a fine burgundy.
Hatch explains that this particular grape was a hybrid of an American grape (that provided required hardiness) and European (that provided desired taste).
Although Jefferson used graftings in his orchard to provide sturdy yet tasty fruits, Jefferson didn’t appear to use that technique for his vineyards.
INTERNATIONAL NEED FOR GRAFTING
After Jefferson’s passing, European grapes suffered their own trials with pests and diseases when native American vines were transported to Europe.
Incorporating new techniques, such as fine tuning the grafting process, proved life-saving for Europe and successful for Virginia (and ultimately America)!
In short, grafty tasty European vines to sturdy American native varieties brought the best of the Old World and the New World together.
VIRGINIA SUCCEEDS
Likewise in America, a hybrid was born.
While experimenting with cultivating a successful wine grape, Dr. Daniel Norton of Richmond in 1825 discovered a vine randomly growing in his test plot.
Cultivating it, Dr. Norton produced a medium to full bodied red wine that was appropriately named, Norton.
Later called the Virginia Claret, the grape became quite popular, winning many worldwide competitions in the 19th century.
During Prohibition the Norton vine met its demise, further buried into an abyss of darkness during the Great Depression then World War II.
Here’s the story of a recent discovery of a 19th century bottle of this famed wine!
By the 1960s, Virginia tried again, this time with an Italian who brought his vast knowledge of winemaking, including a refined method of grafting European vines to American native vines, to the Barboursville Winery, bringing them success!
This fine Italian later worked for the Jefferson Vineyards, where I began my wine tastings while fulling digging into the history of a previous Italian Filippo Mazzie.
Thus began my tour of wineries that comprise the famed Monticello Wine Trail.
MONTICELLO WINE TRAIL
As the Monticello Wine Trail surrounds Monticello, the birthplace of American wine, member wineries with national and international prestige raise their glasses to Thomas Jefferson, who inspired them to pursue a dream.
An interactive map at the previous link simplifies the planning of visits to these esteemed wineries that range from fancy to rustic.
RESOURCES
“Boyd on wine: Thomas Jefferson and the history of wine in the US”, Gerald Boyd, The Press Democrat, June 28, 2017.
Thomas Jefferson’s Creme Brulee: How a Founding Father and his Slave James Hemings introduced French Cuisine to America, Thomas J. Craughwell, 2012.
Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello, Thomas Jefferson Foundation, 2002.
“Thomas Jefferson’s Vineyard Headaches“, Susan Tyler Hitchcock, Washington Post, July 14, 1985.
