Although I had a pair of decent white 18th century stays that I machine stitched last spring, that are quite supportive and comfortable to wear, they could use some finesse.
FITTING ISSUES
Since I have no background in fitting, I was confused with the perfect construction of the stays, despite excellent instructions.
My mom says her aunt, whom I used to spend much time with, was an executive secretary in New York City with a fashionable wardrobe she sewed herself.
However, my mom never developed the talent or patience for fittings, though she sewed straight from the pattern, and I learned from her.
Having given up on modern sewing years ago because nothing fit, I’ve learned from sewing 18th century style that patterns are a guideline, unless they are specifically drafted for the individual.
Modernization cranks out basic shapes and sizes in clothing on the rack, and patterns in the stack.
It takes good old-fashioned understanding of sewing and fitting to customize a garment to actually fit, a skill I’m trying to obtain.
Now that I understand that, I have more patience as I learn.
However, I’m often befuddled in the process.
Like layers of an onion, I learn in layers.
I’ve found I need to jump into the process, make the pattern and see where all the odd shaped pieces go, because pattern pieces for stays have no rhyme or reason to the untaught.
STAYS #2
Now that I have a set of stays to wear, I decided to fiddle with adjustments with a second set of stays.
Primarily for convenience, I’ve used a lot of time sharing my stays with my dress form.
Two sets of stays will solve that problem…and I can hopefully learn more in the process.
FABRIC
Since I’m basically practicing, I did not want to spend a lot of money on the fabric.
Shopping in the local fabric store, I found a heavy fabric that came closest to a sample given me by the Costume Design Center that they recommended for my first pair of stays, to help provide structure.
With that in mind, I found a lovely autumnal green to have fun experimenting with.
At worst, I can simply use it for my dress form while draping.
PATTERN
For the pattern I again used the JP Ryan 18th century strapless stays, which I thought had excellent illustrations and instructions.
This time I created my own pattern pieces based on the set in the package, making adjustments based on the instructions for my fit and advice from the Costume Design Center.
Then I cut into my fabric and sewed them up to see how well that worked…since I learn in layers.
Although I’m coming to a better understanding of stays, they continue to be a bit confusing.
SEWING PROCESS
Due to economy of time, I machine sewed all the millions of long seams of the outer layer, the inner layer, and then the numerous boning channels.
While enjoying a tv show, I hand sewed the eyelets.
FINIS
After trying them on, they still seem off, but I’m not sure why.
I can hear the tailor saying: Take my stays class with Burnley and Trowbridge!
Agreeing with him, I look forward to that day.
Meanwhile, here are some sneak peeks of the stays.
I’ll model them with my new yellow gown, which I’m currently draping.
