For my daughter’s upcoming birthday, I hand sewed a new 18th century jacket with a cute swallowtail back.
FABRIC
Her last jacket was with a non-historical print that she yearned for, but this time she desired a lovely historical print.
Last summer at the Mary Dickenson Store in Colonial Williamsburg, I was about to purchase for myself a lovely 18th century pink floral on blue print.
Falling in love with this historical print, my daughter decided she’d love to have some too for a period accurate jacket.
Since she’s been busy with college, I decided to surprise her for her birthday.
DRAFTED PATTERN
Taking measurements off her previous lavender jacket, I then used a drafted pattern from Costume Close-Up which practically fits my daughter “as is.”
PERIOD SEWING TECHNIQUES
I used all period techniques from Costume Close-Up, which includes using an ingenious 18th century method that involves the sewing of 3 panels of fabric at the same time, 2 of the fashion layer and one of the linen lining.
RECOMMENDATION
I highly recommend Costume Close-Up by Colonial Williamsburg’s Linda Baumgarten because it is full of many details as to the construction of 18th century garments.
Here are those 3 in 1 stitches from the outside…
Handsewn eyelets…
Although my daughter said at the time of the fabric purchase she would like a rose colored petticoat to go with this jacket, I’ve not yet sourced that fabric.
However, I took that cue for the lacing by using rose colored grosgrain ribbon.
For more photos, check my Flickr set.
COMMENTS FROM MY OLD BLOG
Time Traveling in Costume – September 28, 2014 at 11:29 AM -I’ve almost finished a short jacket using JP Ryan’s pattern and while looking at the back of the “peplum” (don’t know if they call it that in this time period like the Victorians) I saw an irregular edge and thought I was supposed to even it out but now looking at yours, I see it’s part of it and folds in. Whew! I almost cut mine off!
*I know I’m behind in reading your posts but this one would have only helped me today, so its all good*
Val
lahbluebonnet – September 28, 2014 at 12:47 PM – I don’t recall having heard the word “peplum” in this timeframe. Most of us describe that as the cute swallowtail look! I’m glad you didn’t cut it off because that is the cute part of the jacket!
Laurie
