Recently I completed embellishing a gown I had draped and sewn last year for our 17th century Becoming History presentation.
DRAPING
My research began with the Janet Arnold Patterns of Fashion 1 for a 1660 extant gown bodice, since the petticoat and overskirt no longer exist.
Between her details and a theater costume book, I drafted patterns for the sleeve and front and back bodice, while draping the rest.
FABRIC
Since this is only a stage costume, I purchased polyester silk tafetta on sale.
Of the available color options, my daughter chose spring green for her gown, while I chose royal blue for mine.
PINKED SELF-FABRIC TRIM
For my daughter’s gown, I created puffed trim as seen in historical paintings.
Then for my trim, I duplicated the pinked trim found in the extant gown in the Janet Arnold book,
SPARKLY CHEMISE
Then I made the chemise for each of us, in the manner of Janet Arnold’s description: trimmed with lace that peaks out of the top of the gown.
Perusing the lace trim, I found a type I lloved with subtle sequins that I thought would be fun since these were only stage costumers anyway.
Pink for me…
Aqua for my daughter…
EXTRA EMBELLISHMENTS
Although I began embellishing my gown with tiny irredescent purple seed beeds, it was taking too long because it wouldn’t lay in straight lines no matter how many stitches I used.
Further research and more shopping gave me a quicker embellishment to help the trim pop.
Gold metallic trim for the main portion of the bodice, offset by strands of pearls around the neckline.
18TH CENTURY STAYS FOR STRUCTURE
Since this was a stage costume, I sewed it simply and quickly without the inner corsetry-like structure as detailed in Janet Arnold’s book.
For our Becoming History presentation, I wore my old stays from before the B&T workshop, but for this photo shoot I wore the stays from my Burnley and Trowbridge workshop from last autumn.
They are so heavily reinforced, they hurt me! But they certainly do make a proper form, that is close enough in silhouette for a stage costume, and the structure removed lots of wrinkles while wearing the gown.
The stays, btw, are completed structurally, although I’m still doing some homework from the advice from the tailor to address my discomfort…and then I’ll finish lining the inside. (stay tuned)
PEARL JEWELRY
Since I’ve stumbled upon many historical paintings of European royalty wearing an excessive amount of pearls, why not?
I love pearls!
My photographer son suggested all the poses, including with the chess set.
MY NEXT 1660 GOWN
Now that I’ve practiced with these gowns for myself and my daughter, I’m looking forward to taking my time with creating a historically accurate one. Stay tuned!
