For one evening, the inaugural ball gown is the most important dress in the country. -Washington Post, January 5, 1997
To the melodic strains of Tony Evans and his orchestra performing Wonderful One, we experienced the sensation of swishing skirts and sparkling jewels, while admiring gowns through the eras of American history.
And so, for inaugural weekend I set aside my sewing basket for a grand tour of inaugural ball gowns and other delightful period attire of the First Ladies, at the Smithsonian’s American History Museum in Washington DC.
The collection began in 1912 with the dream of two ladies, one of whom was the great-granddaughter of President James Monroe, Rose Gouverneur Hoes.
When approached by Cassie Mason Myers Julian-James, who was thinking more generically of a general clothing exhibit, Hoes suggested an exhibit specific to the first ladies, since she could loan first lady attire that belonged to Elizabeth Monroe and her daughter, Maria Gouverneur, who sometimes subbed for her mother.
As the ladies planned the exhibit, First Lady Helen Taft donated her inaugural gown from three years before.
Interspersed with the inaugural gowns were evening gowns from state dinners that the first ladies wore in their dignitary duties.
Presenting from left to right the inaugural gowns of Nancy Reagan, Barbara Bush, Hillary Clinton, and Laura Bush.
Another favorite of mine was Mamie Doud Eisenhower’s (1953-1961) rose silk damask ball gown, worn to a 1957 state dinner at the British Embassy. (Smithsonian)
Popular for setting fashion trends, she was just as happy purchasing from designers as well as from discount department stores, as long as she liked the style.
These two gowns belonged to Grace Coolidge (1923-1929).
The blue dress was given to her maid, Maggie Rogers, who in turn gave it to her daughter who later became a maid as well.
These two maids are featured in a book and movie, Backstairs at the White House.
Grace Coolidge was popular for her more sedate flapper style which American women appreciated.
She and her husband, Calvin Coolidge, were both known to enjoy shopping for her dresses.
Presenting from left to right, Edith Bolsin Wilson’s gown (1915-1921) a black charmeuse satin dress trimmed with beads, black velvet, and white net from the House of Worth in Paris. (Smithsonian)
Julia Grant’s (1869-1877) white silk damask evening gown. Apparently, the fabric was a gift from the emperor of China. Despite her taste in simplicity, she was renowned for wearing pearls, diamonds and corals with rich fabrics.
While first lady, Lou Hoover was considered one of America’s best dressed women, so she was the first of the first ladies to be featured in Vogue.
Of course, we all know how fashionable Jacqueline Kennedy was. Her costume pearls are displayed next to her gown.
Another fashion icon was Frances Folsom Cleveland who married President Grover Cleveland in 1886 while wearing orange blossoms.
Her evening gown was my favorite, showcased with 2 extra bodices, pictured in the back row below.
Presenting Lucy Haye’s (1877-1881) reception gown of gold damask and cream satin.
Although the first ladies are not required to donate their gown, traditionally she does.
Usually, she donates the first inaugural ball gown to the Smithsonian, and if there is a second inaugural ball, that gown usually goes to the Presidential Library.
