As the sun began to set in the late afternoon, the chill of the air caused my kids to don their winter cloaks, sadly of the 19th century.
Although my daughter would like a cloak like the historical interpreter on the far right in the photo above, she would like it to be cardinal red, like the historical interpreter in the photo below.
Alas, a year ago I knew less of historical sewing, so I resorted very quickly to costume patterns from JoAnn.
These cloaks my kids are wearing are more true of the 19th century than the 18th.
Now that I have quite a bit of education and historically accurate sewing behind me, and winter cold ahead of me, it was time to remedy this time warp.
Next on my sewing list was a new winter cloak for my daughter, which would be super easy to knock out due to its simplicity.
PATTERNS
Last winter I began researching and collecting appropriate historic patterns which led to two options in my stash:
- Kannik’s Korner Short Cloak 1750-1800 pattern, that comes with historical documentation.
- Costume Close-Up by Linda Baumgartner of Colonial Williamsburg 1750 to 1810 pattern, which requires drafting.
It was interesting comparing the similarities and differences, which builds my list of questions next time I visit the tailor and milliner.
At the end of the day, my daughter wanted her new cloak to be long enough to keep out the cold wind, but not too long, since she trips easily.
That means either lengthening the Kannik’s Korner cloak or shortening the Costume Close-Up cloak.
FABRIC
Contacting various suttlers for fabric samples, none had the color in the quality of supple thinness as in the wool samples the Costume Design Center gave me last year.
No longer able to delay the purchase since the winter winds would soon hit Virginia, I a bright red scarlet broadcloth wool from William Booth, Draper which quickly arrived.
MUSLIN PROCESS
Starting with a muslin, I quickly decided to use Costume Close-Up, except I had no paper large enough for a cloak and it would be crazy to tape lots of large (but too small) sheets together.
I decided to be bold (or crazy?) and do the circular body of the cloak from my head.
First, I analyzed the Costume Close-Up layout and focused on the body.
While measuring my daughter, I analyzed the Costume Close-Up strategic points which I sketched onto the muslin with a black marker (I told you I was bold!) and cut it out.
I had my daughter try it for a fit and it looked like it should!
With the easiest part done, I decided to use the Kannik’s Korner hood portion of the pattern to save me time in drafting the hood from Costume Close-up.
Unfortunately, our wool was too thick to pleat or gather as much as suggested.
MACHINE SEWN FOR NEED OF SPEED
Interestingly, KK says that machine sewing is impossible.
Well, I have a Pfaff 2.0 Expression, which is an entry level computerized sewing machine.
Despite not being industrial strength, my sewing machine easily sewed the seams on this wool.
Although machine sewing is quick (especially since I homeschool) and I have a few more winter garments to make (a wool cloak for my son as well as a new wool Lafayatte coat-he outgrew the old one).
REPRODUCTION HOOKS
I purchased reproduction hooks from Burnley and Trowbridge.
When my daughter came home from Awana club last night, she was thrilled to see the cloak.
It was everything she wanted.
PIECING HISTORICALLY ACCURATE
Personally, I’m disappointed in the piecing in the front, but that is precisely how it was done in Costume Close-Up.
Due to the width of the cloak versus width of the fabric before cutting, piecing is required.
Besides everyone in the 18th century had pieced garments, either because of orginal limited width of fabric, or because of frugality of making the most of the fabric at hand.
Thomas Jefferson had a pieced collar on his great coat.
As I recall, John Hancock had a pieced frock coat.
If I ever get to make myself an 18th century cloak, I plan to do it with a seam in the middle back like the female interpreters wear in CW.
GRAND ILLUMINATION DEBUT OF MY DAUGHTER’S RED CLOAK
In the header photo can be seen the back of my daughter’s cloak, which pops against the blacks and dark green of the winter attire of the gents.
Later in the weekend my daughter made new colonial friends, also attired in their warm red cloaks! It’s a thing in Colonial Williamsburg!
Stay tuned to the extra touches that will be added to her red cloak on a later date, including a waistcoat with thread-covered buttons!
